Life on a Peruvian Island, Served with Queso

After four weeks in the Cusco area, I was ready to head out, even if it was on an 8-hour night bus from Cusco to Puno.  Unfortunately, I dont think Cusco felt the same about letting me go.  I went to my regular bakery for a last empañada dinner, only to find their restrooms out of order (with no sign or warning, in typical Peruvian fashion).  The waitress unceremoniously scooped a bucket of water from a giant garbage can and passed it to me to wash my hands.  No apologies.  I would have been shocked if there had been.  Then I went for one last 20/s massage (because really, why not?).  Covered in baby oil and filled with empañadas and cake, I headed back to my host family home for a quick shower before departing to the bus station.  I was really looking forward to a hot shower.  I should have known better.  Not only was there no hot water, there was no water at all.  My last shower in Cusco was completed with a washcloth and the few drops of water I could get to flow from the sink.

The trip on the night bus was surprisingly uneventful.  I traveled with 5 companions from France, Germany, and another American.  The company we booked with, TourPeru, had fairly new busses and seemed to operate safely.  And given that I spend half the year on a motorcoach, I feel like I am qualified to judge this.  After all the horror stories I have heard about South American bus travel, I was relieved.  We arrived in Puno, Peru around 5am, plenty of time to be harassed by tour operators trying to sell us tours to the islands of Lake Titicaca.  We negotiated them to 65/s a person for a 2-day/1-night tour.

The woman told us to be back at the office at 730, which we were.  The tour left at 815.  So Peru. Before our boat could leave port we were serenaded by a one-man band, who then expected tips.  Also so Peru. 

First stop, Uros Floating Islands.  If I didn´t know better, I would think they were built solely as a tourist trap, or maybe one of the themed parts of Disneyworld.  It is unreal that people pass their entire lives on islands built of soil and weeds.  In fact, everything is built using a type of weed that grows in Lake Titicaca as high as 3-meters.  The islands, the houses, the roofs, the boats.  The base of the plant is even used as a food source.  On a positive note, if you don´t get along with your neighbors, all you have to do is hack off your part of the island and create your own. 

Their main source of income is, obviously, tourism.  They do have electricity, as I learned when a woman proudly showed me her 4-inch television (see pic above).  I tried to ask about the plumbing situation, but received vague answers that I´m pretty sure meant they just go in the lake

As touristy as this was, I definitely think it is something to see.  These islands, originally built to help the inhabitants escape the violence first of other indigenous tribes such as the Incas, then of the Spanish, are truly one of a kind. 

The next part of the tour was a little more real.  We stayed with a local family on Amantani Island.  I never could remember the name of my housemom, and in their traditional dress they all looked the same, but she ushered us to her pink house towards the center of the island.  The room was basic, although we did have electricity and a real toilet (albeit one that had to be manually flushed with a bucket of water).  

The walls were decorated with posters of past island events and sporting competitions.  All the walls.  Even those of her dirt kitchen, where she served us our first real island meal, a lunch of fried cheese, rice, and potatoes.  Just when I thought a meal full of carbohydrates couldn´t get more unhealthy, she cut off a big slab of cheese, fried it up, and served it.  Mmmm.  Meat is a special occasion food on the island, where agriculture is the second largest industry after tourism.  They grow potatoes, quinoa, other grains, and more potatoes.  So a usual meal does not include a protein, as a lot of that is bought from the mainland.

After a hike around the island and a dinner of pasta and quinoa soup with potatoes, our housemom dressed us up in traditional clothing for a "fiesta".  Yes, I am aware how cheesy this is.  And the "fiesta" had a junior-high dance feel, with all the boys on one side and girls on another, everyone scared to dance.  So of course I was the awkward one who danced around by myself, then with one other brave soul.  Either way, I now have my photo taken in this oh-so-figure-flattering ensemble.  

The next morning we braved a literal seastorm to reach Taquille Island.  I am not an easily seasick person, but hours in a boat that I was not sure was going to remain upright tested this severely.  I was replaying scenes from the Titanic in my head and locating life jackets and the most accessible exits.  That is not an exaggeration. 

But we made it, a little green, but safe and sound.  The sun came out and after a short hike we were rewarded with a lunch with a view.  It was trucha a la plancha, or grilled trout fresh from the lake.  Delicious.

All in all, especially for the price, I would recommend the trip.  Two days cruising around the lake was a great way to relax (minus our close brush with death).  Definitely go the the Puno station or even the docks to book your trip.  We had no problem getting aboard a boat, and paid a LOT less than the people we knew who had booked online or with an agency in Cusco.